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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.